U-joint help

Started by Fox17, September 13, 2008, 06:05:09 PM

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Fox17

how can i get my old u-jints out of my driveshaft? i tried a c-clamp and it bent the clamp.

TRX450R_Racer

Quote from: Fox17 on September 13, 2008, 06:05:09 PM
how can i get my old u-jints out of my driveshaft? i tried a c-clamp and it bent the clamp.

BFH or a press.
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Chevy1500z71

just take the c clips out, the new u joint will come with new ones, dont worry about bending them removing them. hit it with a big hammer on one side and the cap will come out, then do it on the other side so the other cap comes off and you will then be able to remove the u-joint.

outindeltona


Fox17


MuddFreak77

Hose it down with PB Blaster or Auto Tranny fluid and let it sit for a day or so if you can.  Both of these will eat the rust away and make it easier.

Take the clips out of each side then using a vise or c-clamp push them out.  Now you will want to use 2 sockets a big one that the cap will fit into and a smaller one that is just smaller than the cap.  Use the smaller socket to push the u-joint out and into the larger one. 

If this does not work you might need to take the drive shaft off and use a press.  Before you take the drive shaft off mark it on both ends so it goes back in the same way and is balanced.
Never argue with an Idiot. They drag you down to their level, and then beat you with experience!


'07 Suzuki King Quad
3k Warn Winch
GPS

2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel, 6 way hand

Fox17

Quote from: MuddFreak77 on September 15, 2008, 08:04:14 AM
Hose it down with PB Blaster or Auto Tranny fluid and let it sit for a day or so if you can.  Both of these will eat the rust away and make it easier.

Take the clips out of each side then using a vise or c-clamp push them out.  Now you will want to use 2 sockets a big one that the cap will fit into and a smaller one that is just smaller than the cap.  Use the smaller socket to push the u-joint out and into the larger one. 

If this does not work you might need to take the drive shaft off and use a press.  Before you take the drive shaft off mark it on both ends so it goes back in the same way and is balanced.

i had to take it to a shop. they were siezed and my vice was too small. he charged 40 bucks to do both ends and ut new ones in. well worth it. wish i had done it at first instead of screwing with them for 6 hours.

by marking it, you mean putting the shaft in with the front back in the front or do you mean with the holes on the tranny and rear diff in the same holes on the shaft? my driveshaft is "adjustible" i guess. the front slides out so i had no need to mark it. its easy to tell which end goes toward the front. i put it in and its smooth as silk even with the tires and lift. wish i had done this sooner.

LakeMaryKid

Quote from: Fox17 on September 15, 2008, 02:13:20 PM
Quote from: MuddFreak77 on September 15, 2008, 08:04:14 AM
Hose it down with PB Blaster or Auto Tranny fluid and let it sit for a day or so if you can.  Both of these will eat the rust away and make it easier.

Take the clips out of each side then using a vise or c-clamp push them out.  Now you will want to use 2 sockets a big one that the cap will fit into and a smaller one that is just smaller than the cap.  Use the smaller socket to push the u-joint out and into the larger one. 

If this does not work you might need to take the drive shaft off and use a press.  Before you take the drive shaft off mark it on both ends so it goes back in the same way and is balanced.

i had to take it to a shop. they were siezed and my vice was too small. he charged 40 bucks to do both ends and ut new ones in. well worth it. wish i had done it at first instead of screwing with them for 6 hours.

by marking it, you mean putting the shaft in with the front back in the front or do you mean with the holes on the tranny and rear diff in the same holes on the shaft? my driveshaft is "adjustible" i guess. the front slides out so i had no need to mark it. its easy to tell which end goes toward the front. i put it in and its smooth as silk even with the tires and lift. wish i had done this sooner.

No he means putting a mark on the drive shaft and a mark on the pinion and line them back up when reinstalling.
2003 KFX 400
1994 F-150 - 12" SAS 38.5 Boggers
2007 F-150 Supercrew FX4 Luxury
2004 14' Mirrocraft

Fox17

#8
i dont understand, on my truck, there are 4 bolts on each end that take the driveshaft and the 2 connectors that connect to the tranny and the diff off the truck. what is the pinion?

if i put it back wrong, would it vibrate or screw anything up?

LakeMaryKid

The pinion comes out of the rear axle with a flange on the end of it. I don't know about Toyota's but on Ford's the drive shaft then bolts to the flange on the pinion with 4 12 point bolts. Normally you mark the drive shaft and pinion flange and the drive shaft then slides out of the transfer case.

-Curtis-
2003 KFX 400
1994 F-150 - 12" SAS 38.5 Boggers
2007 F-150 Supercrew FX4 Luxury
2004 14' Mirrocraft

Fox17

mine bolts to a flange on both sides, if i put it back on backwards (theres only 2 ways to do in on mine cause the flanges are rectangular) will it vibrate or mess anything up?

Chevy1500z71

its called a yoke, the yoke is bolted to your pinion gear on the rear end. the yoke is what the u joint is clamped on to. it sounds liek you have a solid yoke on the trans, meaning you have a slip dirveshaft. its not "adjusting", it has to slip to compensate for suspension travel. i think all that they are saying is to make sure you mark what end goes toward the front and what end is toward the back becasue of the fact that you have a solid yoke on both the trans and the rear end, you can mix them up. if you had a slip yoke on the trans (like most trucks) you couldn't mix them up.

MuddFreak77

Quote from: Chevy1500z71 on September 15, 2008, 04:37:01 PM
its called a yoke, the yoke is bolted to your pinion gear on the rear end. the yoke is what the u joint is clamped on to. it sounds liek you have a solid yoke on the trans, meaning you have a slip dirveshaft. its not "adjusting", it has to slip to compensate for suspension travel. i think all that they are saying is to make sure you mark what end goes toward the front and what end is toward the back becasue of the fact that you have a solid yoke on both the trans and the rear end, you can mix them up. if you had a slip yoke on the trans (like most trucks) you couldn't mix them up.

Npe mark it so they align back up cause if you put it in 180 degrees off you might have one hell of a wobble since the shaft is not balanced.  Most shafts are slip shafts and bolt or slide into the tranny/x-fer case.  The Pinion end is usually held on with the saddels.  mark the right side of the shaft to the right side of the yoke and tranny and also the pinion side of the shaft and the pinion.

You want to make sure it goes back in EXACTLY how it came out.
Never argue with an Idiot. They drag you down to their level, and then beat you with experience!


'07 Suzuki King Quad
3k Warn Winch
GPS

2001 F-250 4X4 Diesel, 6 way hand

Chevy1500z71

Quote from: MuddFreak77 on September 15, 2008, 05:45:01 PM
Quote from: Chevy1500z71 on September 15, 2008, 04:37:01 PM
its called a yoke, the yoke is bolted to your pinion gear on the rear end. the yoke is what the u joint is clamped on to. it sounds liek you have a solid yoke on the trans, meaning you have a slip dirveshaft. its not "adjusting", it has to slip to compensate for suspension travel. i think all that they are saying is to make sure you mark what end goes toward the front and what end is toward the back becasue of the fact that you have a solid yoke on both the trans and the rear end, you can mix them up. if you had a slip yoke on the trans (like most trucks) you couldn't mix them up.

Npe mark it so they align back up cause if you put it in 180 degrees off you might have one hell of a wobble since the shaft is not balanced.  Most shafts are slip shafts and bolt or slide into the tranny/x-fer case.  The Pinion end is usually held on with the saddels.  mark the right side of the shaft to the right side of the yoke and tranny and also the pinion side of the shaft and the pinion.

You want to make sure it goes back in EXACTLY how it came out.

o, ok. well iv taken my shaft out several times and never done that, no wobble tho... i don't know if its necessary, but a good idea. i remember that next time.

Fox17

Quote from: Chevy1500z71 on September 15, 2008, 06:06:44 PM
Quote from: MuddFreak77 on September 15, 2008, 05:45:01 PM
Quote from: Chevy1500z71 on September 15, 2008, 04:37:01 PM
its called a yoke, the yoke is bolted to your pinion gear on the rear end. the yoke is what the u joint is clamped on to. it sounds liek you have a solid yoke on the trans, meaning you have a slip dirveshaft. its not "adjusting", it has to slip to compensate for suspension travel. i think all that they are saying is to make sure you mark what end goes toward the front and what end is toward the back becasue of the fact that you have a solid yoke on both the trans and the rear end, you can mix them up. if you had a slip yoke on the trans (like most trucks) you couldn't mix them up.

Npe mark it so they align back up cause if you put it in 180 degrees off you might have one hell of a wobble since the shaft is not balanced.  Most shafts are slip shafts and bolt or slide into the tranny/x-fer case.  The Pinion end is usually held on with the saddels.  mark the right side of the shaft to the right side of the yoke and tranny and also the pinion side of the shaft and the pinion.

You want to make sure it goes back in EXACTLY how it came out.

o, ok. well iv taken my shaft out several times and never done that, no wobble tho... i don't know if its necessary, but a good idea. i remember that next time.

wel, i didnt mark it. it doesnt wobble at all though. its actually very smooth. just like a new car. maybe its balanced good so it doesnt matter or maybe just dumb lick that i put it back on the same way.

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