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I do see your point about the thicker petroleum based oil.   That's a good thought.

I would estimate 50-60 hrs on the motor.  No racing, but some hard trail riding.  I have changed the oil pretty regularly (avg about 5-10 hrs), so I doubt that it should have any substantial wear.   I would like to get most of the old oil out so I don't 'pollute' the Maxima with used Yamalube.  Maybe I might try the air compressor trick.   

I'm open to any other suggestions.

Thanks,

I am going to switch from Yamalube to Maxima Full Synthetic and had a couple of questions for anyone who has done the same thing.

Those who know only reply.

1- Is it necessary to get all (I know you can't get 100%)of the old oil out of the engine before I put the synthetic in. It seems that I only get about 2 out of the 3 qt capacity out every time I change oil.

2- Any danger to clutch plates with a slight mixture of the 2 types in the crankcase.

3. If I need to get all oil out what is the best way to do it.  I noramlly drain the crank case and the oil tank.

Thanks....

Wouldn't bad rings give you white smoke out of the exhaust and oil consumption by burning.  Check the plug.

I would think that oil would be either from the top end or maybe the breather tube that comes from the crankcase and goes to the airbox lid.  Make sure you are not overfilling the oil.  Because it is a drysump system,  the procedure to check the oil is a little different than an engine that keeps all the oil in the crankcase. Check the owners manual.   

I have a stock shifter from my '04 Raptor 660 that sounds like it is the same setup.  Does yours attach to the inside of the foot peg?
I thought that setup was sloppy so I bought a Pro Design billet 1 pc that comes directly off the shift shaft (no linkage and ball joint) now it shifts a lot better.   I would recommend replacing it with a 1pc.  They are about 60 - 80 bucks.  Got mine off E-bay, but a lot of the parts places in Dirt Wheels have them.  Try ALBA or Rocky Mountain ATV supply.   I would give you my stock one for free if it is the same part for 350 and 660.  You would have to pick it up or pay for shipping.  I have a feeling that with the different engine, the shifter length or angle would be different.

  450R,  Thanks for the info. 

I 'm thinking about changing the axle on my Raptor 660, rather than pay to have it done.  Anyone have any tips, what to watch out for etc....   Is it worth it to do it myself.  I have about 50 - 60 hours of trail riding on it.  Should I be ready to change any bearings. 

Thanks

Great Pics, Thanks for posting them

you might want to get a steering stabilizer before you go up there. 

Hint hint.

I bent mine about 1/2 inch down and 1/2 to the right.  I tried to bend it with a sledgehammer without luck. If you heat it you will burn the paint.  There are a lot of them on E-Bay.  You should be able to find one for 100-200 dollars.  I found one to match my '04 red for 199.00.   If you use Pay-Pal then you can dispute it if part is not as advertised.  Hope that helps. 

Hatfield McCoy, Man WV.  We stayed at The Depot in Man.  The town and people are ATV friendly road riding is legal as long as you obey the laws.  You can ride to gas, food etc.  Rode the Rockhouse and Bear Wallow trails. The trails are challenging.  Best bet is to stay off the black trails.  Green and Blue will do just fine.  Lots of rocky trails, tight switchbacks.  Would not recommend ridng any ATV smaller than 200cc.   I crashed there too, but it was my fault.  I didn't see an erosion break they graded across the trail on a downhill until it was too late.  30 mph endo's are not fun. Ouch!!!!   I still plan to make it an annual trip.  Plan to ride ate least 4 or 5 days. You can trailer to different trailheads and also Bracket Drag racing and Hillclimb competition open to everyone on Sat. night at Xtreme Rolling Thunder park in Logan.  There are all types of lodging...motels to campgrounds

www.trailsheaven.com

Just trail riding and want some better handling and lower center of gravity.  I think I will try the wider axle and spacers first, then maybe lowering kit.  Soon, I want to go to 22' tires on the rear, so I figure a lowering kit would make up the difference.   

Really true.  You never know when that stump or rock will come up and give your case a whack.  Better safe than sorry, that plastic just doesn't cut it.

I go to Big Scrub.  If you can put up with the whoops for a mile or two there are some nice trails and logging roads to the northeast or southeast. Head east on the powerlines till you get past the gas line road and then pick a trail and explore.  Be careful if you don't have a GPS.

Great Video Bones,  Thanks.......

Pull your plug after a ride that varies in engine speed (not a lot of idiling or WFO).   The plug should be a medium gray ash color.   White, yellow or brown would be on the lean side, black and carboned up would be too rich.   

Hope that helps

Yoshi and Zuki go together.

Same complaint as most.  Too high, too top heavy.  I'm getting too old to wrestle this thing around in the corners and hang off the inside.  Thought about a YFZ or New Raptor 700, but you always lose your axe on a re-sale. Not really interested in selling for 4300 - 4500 and buying for 6 or 7k.  I am going to get a G-Force axle and wheel spacers to increase the width.  Just wondered if lowering kits are worth the money. 

Would like to put front and rear lowering kits on my Raptor 660.  Maybe something like the ones by Durablue.  Does anyone know of any reasons not to?  Two reasons I could think not to do it would be less ground clearance for the swingarm skid plate.  Maybe not so much the clearance, but changing the angle of the swing arm so more of the skid would drag more often. Maybe also weakening the front where the shocks mount.   I'm not too much into jumping, but sometimes hit the whoops hard. 

Thanks for any feedback.

St.Pete Times said he was 19.

From what the article showed, I thought Sparks, White Bros or Yoshi.

Thanks for the tips guys.  I will definitely try them.  I can't stand that squeak.

I 've got that problem too.  (No, not the weight, well maybe i'm a few Budwheezers over what I should be).  I had a hard time figuring out where it is coming from.  Seems like everytime I spray it, the quiet lasts for a short time and then comes right back.   Any other ideas besides a new shock?  I am thinking of taking my rear suspension apart see if I could isolate it to one spot like maybe bushings.   Also curious why it only happens to some and not all Raptors.  Also does it more some days than others.  I spoke to a service guy at a dealer in Palm Harbor that I despise and said he had never heard of this on Raptors. Talked to a Raptor rider at Big Scrub and he said he had the same problem.   He said it was the shock also.

It's a shame they use the same names to defame......

Look at the Charger, Malibu, Now GTO and GNX.  I read a compare of the original GNX vs. a Callaway Twin Turbo 'Vette in '88 Popular Mechanics mag and the Buick beat it like it stole something from it. 

I have a Pro-Circuit T-4 on mine and it has a wicked deep sound compared to most others.  With a K&N filter and jet kit it hits pretty hard, especially mid range to top end

Same as above, but you do need a USFS approved spark arrestor.

Stay off numbered roads.