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Its not just for the clutches. all atvs have flat tappet cams which require the same additive package that keeps your wet clutch alive, zink. I use atv oil in my mud truck because it has the zink for the flat tappet cam in that truck. modern vehicles have roller cams so the zinc is not required, plus the small amount of oil that any engine consumes will ruin a catalytic converter over time if its chalk full of zink so car oil has been going in the direction of less and less of these additives as emissions gets tighter. Friction modifiers are not what ruin the clutch. the lack of zink does.

diesel oil has zink in it too but its also dwindling as emissions tighten up on diesels. on top of that, diesel oil has a ton of detergent which kind of hinders the effects of the zink from what ive read. rotella t changed there formula and they are down to i think 400ppm of zink. i buy mobil delvac for my diesel truck, supposedly it has 1300ppm of zink in it thus the label saying "delvac super 1300" but i bet they changed the formula by now.

point is, just buy any motorcycle or atv oil. anything for off road use will have the additives you want.

and for just plain clutch systems like on a dirt bike for example, i just use automatic trans fluid. type f has no friction modifiers in it, so thats the one to use.

4psi is always good. 6-8 would be high, you could try around there if you wanted.

cool project but something you should consider is that you really shouldn't use a motor out of a bike in a 4 wheeler. atv engines have counter balancers for a reason. using a cr 250 top end is a good idea but you really want a trx case. your gonna need to buy red lock tight by the 50 gallon drum. good luck with it.

if your looking for a family camping weekend then go to a real campground. dont go to a rowdy drunken mud fest and then complain that theres to many big mud trucks and drunk people. What do you really expect?

from what i hear, no. its still just how it has been. the main trails are fine but you cant really get out to moose pond.

nobody? forums gettin pretty dead lately

Anybody been out to 5A recently. We were going to go camping this weekend but I'm afraid its too wet to get my truck out there, what are the main trails looking like?

i used to work at an atv shop, I've put hundreds of plugs in atv tires, they work wonders. all atv tires are generally aired up to 4psi btw.

are the main trails swamped out or just out at moose pond and the lower areas?

theres always people out there. go out to moose pond, its where everyone's at.

need alot more details then that. is it sputtering, choking, does it black smoke, sound like its gonna die or just keeps going but has no power.

the issue has something to do with the carb, pretty much always comes down to the carb. has it been sitting a long time, it only takes about a month in some instances with ethanol fuel.

polaris wont specify what your supposed to use, they just sell there own fluid that your pretty much forced to buy. so check in your owners manual to see which one of their stupid overpriced fluids you need to buy. if it calls for "angle drive fluid" im pretty sure that one is just 80w-90 gear oil, if it calls for anything else like "hub fluid" or some other bs just buy it because i couldn't tell you what it is.

iv camped out there a few times. its safe if you camp back in the woods and stay away from moose pond, out by moose ponds is were any trouble would be at because thats where everyone goes to party.

I keep trying to figure out pinion angles, and how he transfered to the frnt axle.

im sure hes using a pro fab transfer case.

i want one.

we were out there Saturday. we were the guys pulling a portopotty on a trailer behind a side by side if anyone saw us...

hey man i think were goin out there Saturday, ill let ya know on facebook. gotta get the ole chevy running first, cooling issues to deal with first...

wow those guys are idiots. thats way to many people, and you never EVER ride on the bed rail unless your going really slow!

i used to ride in the bed alot when i was a little younger and dumber, im a little uneasy about it now a days, the video doesn't help lol.

did you ever figure this out? your carb isnt dirty, Suzuki's petcocks turn them selves off from a vacuum diaphragm in the petcock. if the diaphragm rips the petcock will dump raw fuel through the vacuum line into the carb causing it to run very rich. if the carb was dirty it would run in choke good becasue choke will add fuel to the mix while the jets are cloged.

plug the vacuum line on both the carb and petcock sides, turn the petcock sideways to the free flow position and be done with it.

Well got it purring nice  

I ended up dropping bowl made sure pump was working and main jet was open.
Turned needle 3.5 out and no backfire.
Somethings up w/the air cleaner causing popping I think.
Took it out saw a little white smoking comming out of airbox but idled much better..
Any leads on a replacement foam or k&n.
Considering selling it or keeping it. Don't get to ride it very much by myself  

glad to see you got it running good.

3 and a half turns is right on the edge, its hard for me to say weather your pilot jet is clean or not. iv seen them so clogged it was like they were filled with concrete, to the point of needing to be completely replaced. alot of times youl need to poke the jet out with a hair from a wire brush. iv put carbs together that i though were thoroughly cleaned and it didnt idle right, it always ends up being a pilot jet that never cleaned out. i always hold them to the light and make sure i can see through them now.

as for the air cleaner, www.rockymountainatv.com should cary it, i prefer k&n for myself, they pass less dirt but they require much more upkeep. i recommend foam to most people becasue they can be totaly neglected. if you dont take care of a k&n you wont be happy with it, they really need to be cleaned every 3 rides with no lid on the airbox, if you keep the lid on your box youl probably be alot happier with how long you can go without cleaning it tho.

yup, the black plastic round cover on top is where the diaphragm is under.

sounds to me like new gas fixed half the problem, if the gas you drained out wasn't any good, you can bet the carb has gotten fouled up from it. the moisture that this ethanol blend gas attracts creates a gelly sludge in the carb in no time. sea foam is never a bad idea, i like to use it along side of a vacuum clean. alot of times if i bike is running a little rough i can save the time of taking the carb apart by doing a "vacuum clean", i take the airfilter off and rev the motor up, as the rpms run up ill put my hand over the intake to cut the air going in, at this point id also open the throttle completely, you will see the intake tube collapse from the extreme vacuum. ill just sit there with the throttle wide open and control the rpms from going to high by slaping my hand over the intake over and over. let it wind up, cut it off until its ready to die and then pull your hand off and let it wind up again. alot of times the high vacuum will suck any any junk from the jets, doesnt always work but its a little trick that iv used from time to time. when your pouring the seafaom in the intake youl notice its difficult to get the motor to consume the seafoam because the vacuum slide never wants to really open up in neutral, do the vacuum clean trick and youl really move some sea foam through the engine.

so next time your buddys bike is running a little rough while your out riding, show him your new trick you learned on the forum lol.

if the screw is on the bottom near the bowl its a fuel screw.

yes, a pop on the decel is exactly what it would do if it was a little lean, move the screw to about 2 and a half turns out and give it a try. if it was rich it wouldn't pop, it would have trouble idling at a reasonable rpm and stumble and load up at idle.

Hey thanks again for the response.

I got it fire up and I've tried adjusting the fuel needle in/out and I cant get it to maintain idle after accelerating.
I get the popping in the airbox and then it cuts out.
If I open the choke one click it runs so I take it I have to open the needle futher out to 3 turns then??

Otherwise I'm going to take it apart again and make sure I didn't put it back together wrong
It's a pita to adjust that screw w/carb on bike. I know now why people change those screws out

try taking it out to about 3 turns, if it gets past 4 turns you need to realize the the pilot jet is probably clogged.

the thing is, the fuel screw is just an additional adjustment to the idle circuit, the pilot jet is your main means of metering fuel for idle/part throttle operation. the fuel screw is like a modifier to the pilot jet, its there so you can fine tune the pilot(idle) circuit. the pilot jet becomes clogged up very easily, so alot of times the pilot jet will be gummed up and the rest of the carb is clean, if this is the case the motor will get by on the fuel its getting from the fuel screw for idle, which means youl notice the fuel screw needs to be adjusted WAY out to get it to run right.

so like i said, dont be afraid to take the fuel screw out to around 3 turns, its becoming more common with todays gas, but if your like 4 and a half turns out, its time to check the pilot jet.

if the screw is on the bottom near the bowl its a fuel screw.

yes, a pop on the decel is exactly what it would do if it was a little lean, move the screw to about 2 and a half turns out and give it a try. if it was rich it wouldn't pop, it would have trouble idling at a reasonable rpm and stumble and load up at idle.

theres a few things id check. first of all, check the quality of your gas, drain some into a glass jar and wait a few minutes and see if the jar of gas becomes half water, half gas.

second, your carb is probably a mikuni cv series or something like it, meaning it has a vacuum slide. iv seen the diaphragm on the top of the slide get ripped causing the slide to never open. if your diaphragm is ripped, you can give it throttle and open the buterfly up all you want, but the slide wont follow. this causes effects pretty similar to what you describe. iv seen this happen from the rivets that attach diaphragm to the carb just becoming loose, but if your only going 13mph, id have to think you have a big rip.

you may also want to just go through your carb and make sure no jets are clogged up.

Trying to get bike running again and took everything apart and didn't count turns  

Trying searching w/n o luck

Thanks

edit: got right name for needle

you mean the fuel/air screw? i always start at 2 turns out. if its an air screw, turning it in will richen up the mix, if its a fuel screw, turing it in will lean it out. fuel screws are pointy and have a small o-ring, air screws are blunt and typically dont have an o-ring. realisticly, it should run fine at 2 turns but if you want to tune it in a bit youl notice that with today's gas burning a little richer then the old gas, you might notice that the bike will needs to be adjusted a little richer then it was stock so don't be alarmed if you end up running best at 3 turns out on a fuel screw or only 1 turn out on an air screw.