no brakes, '95 big bear

[pkeeney]

I just got my first atv, a 1995 yamaha big bear 350 4x4.  None of the brakes work (luckily that's all that seems wrong with it).  From what I've been told, brakes commonly go bad from use in mud or water or whatever.  The previous owner said he never even bothered with them, he never used them anyway, and supposedly they'd go bad real quick if the brakes are submerged.

I'm real mechanically inclined (fix my own car and have tools and such).  Is there a way to have good, functioning brakes that won't go bad the first time I go through mud?  Or is downshifting an acceptible way to slow down?

Also, I have $1,000 to spend on this thing.  After the brakes, I'm wondering what I should do first.  I need to wire up the winch, it may or may not work.  I like the idea of a lift kit, not sure what else I should look into though.  Any suggestions?

[Joedirt]

EBC makes a good brake pad , get the extreme duty ones...they last longer than the OEM pads...then get TIRES.....

[pkeeney]

So usually it's only the pads that need replacing?  Are there any other wear items I should replace while I have it all apart?  What keeps the brakes from going bad in wet conditions, or what could I do to safeguard against premature brake failure?

[Joedirt]

stay out of the mud and water.......

Most times it is just the pads , on our Vinson the brakes were so bad the rear pad fell out on the trail...worn that bad...lol.....hopefully the calipers are not bad

[NPRVinson]

Yea, what Joedirt said. Go with the extreme duty pads and when you have access to a hose make sure you rinse them out good to get all the sand out. Make sure your calipers are not seized up when you change the pads and check the rubber seals on them for dry rot.

[pkeeney]

Alright, thanks for the input.  I ordered a factory service manual today, then I'll get crackin'.

[pkeeney]

Oh, I meant shoes, not pads, if that makes any difference.  Drum brakes.

[pkeeney]

Well, this sucks.  One front brake doesn't even have shoes in it, and it's missing the cylinder guts, if that makes any sense.  The other side was almost unrecognizable from all the rust, I guess I'll have to replace both front calipers, and maybe even all the brake lines, depending on how corroded they are.  Weeee.

[NPRVinson]

Looks like you will have something  to start spending the extra money on. Sorry to hear that, it could get costly.

[svtbolt04]

Hey man, check out www.ronnies.com for all your OEM needs. They have a microphish so you can pick what you need or the whole assembly.

[pkeeney]

Before I removed the drums in the first place, I had already purchased front shoes.  The guy at the dealership in parts said he's been doing this 30 years, and he's noticed that aftermarket shoes for this atv fit about 50% of the time, so I got factory ones.

I just ordered 4 new slave cylinders (2 in each drum, 1 for each shoe), 4 new springs, 4 retaining clips, 2 new large seals (go around the outer diameter, seals against the drum), and 2 new o-rings (seals around the axle spline).  Over $400, but this will probably be the best the brakes have ever been since it the thing rolled off the showroom floor.  I plan on removing the drums after any wet/muddy riding and making sure everything's clean. 

Also got my factory service manual yesterday, what a relief.  Comes pre-smudged with greasy fingerprints, thanks e-bay!

Now I need to get ahold of some "hitch pin clips" rather than using cotter pins, so I can remove the axle nut repeatedly without having to get a new cotter pin each time.

[pkeeney]

I have everything installed, I can't get the fronts to bleed.  So frustrating.  Disconnected the line at the MC, fluid came out.  Disconnected one of 2 lines at the splitter block, fluid came out there.  I guess next I'll disconnect it where the hard line meets the rubber line, see if it'll bleed there.  I'm sure there's a clog somewhere, but this really sucks.